Pelargonium or geranium? A plant that many of us grow on our windowsills is mistakenly called a geranium. The confusion with the names - pelargonium or geranium - arose from the fact that when, in the 18th century, the Dutch botanist Johannes Burman wanted to separate these two plants into different genera, it turned out that the famous scientist of that time, Carl Linnaeus, had already compiled his own classification and mistakenly combined them into a common group. Popular in those days, flowering pelargonium was actively used in Victorian gardens. And both plants began to be called "geraniums".

For a long time, pelargonium was considered an aristocratic plant. She was bred in the greenhouses of wealthy owners of mansions and villas. In the United States and Western Europe, this plant has been popular for more than one hundred years.

Unfortunately, in our country there was a period not only of the heyday of the popularity of this flower, but also of incomprehensible oblivion. Probably, many remember the years when pelargonium received the terrible nickname "philistine flower", and for some time became unfashionable.

Fortunately, flower growers remembered these luxurious flowers, and clubs for pelargonium lovers began to appear in our country.

Pelargoniums are indispensable in garden design and in indoor floriculture. As a result of the work of breeders, many varieties and varieties of pelargoniums have appeared, which are gaining more and more popularity in ornamental gardening.

Pelargonium and geranium - similarities and differences

Both plants belong to the same Geranium family. The family includes 5 genera and 800 species of other plants. Geranium belongs to the most numerous genus, and pelargonium - to the most popular. One of the signs by which Carl Linnaeus united them was the similarity of the fruit box. After fertilization, the elongated pistil slightly resembles a crane's beak, which explains the name of the plants. Translated from Greek, "Pelargos" means stork, and "Geranium" means crane.

Both pelargonium and geranium have erect stems with alternately growing leaves. The next similarity is that in both plants the leaves have a slight pubescence (covered with small hairs). Also, many geraniums have a special aroma.



Both Pelargonium and Geranium are easy to propagate and are considered hardy plants.

Differences are visible, perhaps, only to specialists. Geranium and pelargonium cannot be crossed. You just won't get seeds. This is due to differences in genetic characteristics.

The birthplace of pelargonium considered to be South Africa. Geraniums are native to the Northern Hemisphere. That is why the southern pelargonium can only winter in room conditions, while the geranium is more cold-resistant and can bloom even at 12 degrees Celsius.

In summer, pelargonium often decorates flower beds, verandas and balconies. But with the onset of winter, it must be cleaned in a warm room.



Geranium, on the other hand, feels comfortable in gardens, and even endures wintering, with the exception of the northernmost regions. Therefore, it is customary to consider geranium garden plant, and pelargonium - indoor.

Is there some more external signs by which geranium and pelargonium can be distinguished.

  • Geranium flowers consist of 5 or 8 petals. Usually, these are single flowers, which occasionally gather in inflorescences. In home pelargonium, the corolla of the flower has an irregular shape, namely, the two upper petals are slightly larger, the lower three are smaller. Pelargonium flowers are combined into large inflorescences resembling umbrellas.
  • Geranium, among the huge variety of its shades, does not have scarlet. Pelargonium does not have blue flowers.

Cultivation and care

In general, pelargonium can be described as unpretentious plant which is fast growing and easy to propagate. With good care, pelargonium can bloom year-round. There are various ways that even the most capricious specimens can. The leaves exude a pleasant spicy aroma, from which geranium essential oil is extracted under industrial conditions.

Growing pelargonium is not difficult. Fulfilling simple rules and creating favorable conditions, you will achieve lush and bright flowering. On one plant per season, there can be up to 20 or even more inflorescences. It can be buds, fully opened inflorescences and already losing their decorative effect. Fading inflorescences should be removed immediately so that the plant does not lose strength and continues to bloom.



If a pelargonium grows in the garden, then under favorable weather conditions, its flowering can continue until late autumn. This distinguishes it from other decorative cultures.

By the way, it has been noticed that there are no aphids on flowers growing next to pelargonium.

Lighting

Pelargonium is a photophilous plant that can tolerate direct sun. Only a few of them are considered fussy, and prefer places (such as terraces or balconies) protected from direct sunlight, wind and rain. On the windowsill in bright sun, pelargonium can overheat. Therefore, it needs good ventilation and protection from the hot midday sun.



With a lack of light, the leaves begin to turn yellow, the lower leaves die off and expose the stem. Flowering weakens or may stop altogether.

Soil and top dressing

Pelargonium loves fertile and well-drained loose soil. The soil mixture can either be purchased or prepared by yourself by mixing garden soil, peat, medium-grained sand and a little humus in equal proportions.

Since pelargonium does not like stagnant water and requires good aeration, a good layer of drainage should be laid on the bottom of the pot.

In order for the plant to please you with lush and long flowering, care should include regular top dressing (1 time in 2 weeks). Some flower growers do this: in the hot season, when watering is done every day, the weekly feeding rate is divided into 7 parts and top dressing is introduced with each watering. If a clod of earth is dry, you must first spill it with water.

For fertilizer, any liquid universal formulations for flowering houseplants are suitable.

In winter, when the plant is resting, top dressing should be canceled. With the onset of spring (in March-April), pelargonium begins to be fed with fertilizer with a high content of potassium.

Fertilizers should be refrained from after transplanting the plant and give it time to acclimatize - about a month.

Watering

Pelargonium is considered a drought-resistant plant. It is recommended to water the flower only when the top layer of earth in the pot dries up. However, one should not allow a strong drying of the earthy coma.

Over-watering causes leaf and stem rot, and can lead to the death of the plant. Watering should be moderate. One of the signs that the earth ball has begun to dry out is that if you touch the earth, it will not remain on your fingers. This means it's time to water. The frequency of watering may depend on individual conditions and air temperature - an average of 1-2 days. In winter, watering should be reduced.

It is not necessary to spray the pelargonium. Excessive dampness and poor ventilation can provoke.

By the way, these plants prefer dry air in our winter apartments more than high humidity. For this reason, pelargonium can be considered that rare flower that prefers a room to a greenhouse. Therefore, it should not be placed next to plants that require a humidifier.

Temperature

Comfortable temperature for pelargonium is 20-25 degrees. If the plant is on a balcony or terrace, it is better to protect it from gusts of wind and drafts.

In winter, if possible, special conditions can be created for this southern beauty - place it in a glazed frost-free greenhouse or loggia, where the night temperature does not drop below +6 degrees, and the daytime temperature reaches +12-15 degrees. On especially sunny days, in order to avoid overheating, the greenhouse must be ventilated. However, there are varieties of geraniums that are better kept at higher temperatures.

Good air circulation is one of the main conditions for a successful wintering. Therefore, it is not necessary to put pelargonium too closely. These flowers do not like to hide in the shadow of their neighbors, but prefer to show off. Plants with very dense crowns can be slightly thinned out. Otherwise, with thickening and poor aeration, there is a risk of fungal diseases.

Trimming and pinching

Proper and regular pruning contributes to:

  • Formation of a neat compact crown of a plant
  • The appearance of lateral shoots and rudiments of inflorescences
  • More lush bloom
  • Obtaining quality planting material

Since there are a wide variety of varieties among indoor pelargoniums - with erect and lodging stems, dwarf, ampelous and tall species, pruning should be approached individually in each case.

Depending on the variety, the formation of the flower crown may vary. However, there is a general rule - pruning should be regular. Do not run the appearance of the plant.

Pelargonium pruning technique

The cut is best done at an acute angle with a blade, sharp clerical or thin kitchen knife. Scissors are not recommended for this purpose, as they pinch the shoot at the cut point. The cut is made above the leaf node, facing outward. Then new shoots will not interfere with each other and thicken the crown.

In order to protect the flower from decay and pest damage, the cut point must be sprinkled with crushed charcoal.

If you want to remove a young shoot, you can simply pinch it gently, trying not to damage the main stem.

In addition, "seasonal" pruning should be carried out.

Autumn pruning is carried out after flowering is completed with two goals - to form a beautiful crown and improve the plant. To do this, all dried leaves, stems and flowers are removed. And also the weak bare and elongated stems are shortened. Autumn pruning helps the plant to better endure the winter cold and maintain strength until spring. At the same time, almost the entire ground part is cut off (approximately at the level of 5-6 cm) leaving 2-3 eyes, with the exception of the royal pelargonium.

You should not be afraid of a big pruning, because during the winter, with the proper content of pelargonium, the plant will make up for everything and give young shoots.

Autumn pruning and pinching can be done until the onset of winter. And only with the onset of December, the flower should be left alone. Some flower growers insist on an earlier dormant period. The difference in approach is due to different plant conditions. It's one thing if you have the opportunity to arrange a real winter apartment with a cool temperature for your flower. Another thing is if your pelargonium is in a warm living room.

However, the general rule is that the plant should rest (in a cool room until January). Then the pelargonium is brought into heat and they are waiting for it to grow. As soon as the flower began to grow, it is again pinched for splendor.

Spring pruning of pelargonium carried out in cases where the bush has grown strongly during the winter or develops asymmetrically. It is best to do this with the approach of spring (late February - early March).

During spring pruning, the flower can be fed with a nitrogen-containing fertilizer to accelerate the formation of shoots and green mass.

reproduction

Pelargonium is propagated by cuttings or by planting seeds.

cuttings

Pelargonium breeds well using cuttings. This method preserves all varietal characteristics of the plant.

Cuttings can be prepared with early spring until autumn. Flowering time comes in 16-20 weeks depending on the variety. It is not recommended to take cuttings from dormant plants (until the end of January).

For reproduction, shoots 6-7 cm long with three leaves are harvested and the cut is dried in the air for several hours. For dwarf varieties, cuttings 2.5-3 cm long are suitable. To do this, make a small cut at an acute angle, and remove the lower leaves. In order for pelargonium to take root well, you can use root-stimulating preparations, which you need to lightly powder the cut and plant in prepared pots.

It is not necessary to cover the cuttings. At a temperature of 20-22 degrees and regular watering, young pelargoniums will soon grow. Usually, the rooting process takes from two weeks to a month, depending on the variety. When watering, you should try to prevent water from getting on the leaves and stem, in order to avoid diseases. As soon as the cuttings have grown, they will need to be transplanted into separate pots with a special soil mixture recommended for pelargoniums.

Reproduction by seeds

The recommended time for sowing seeds is the end of January - February. Some gardeners plant earlier. But in this case, additional lighting is required, since the natural daylight hours are still too short, and the seedlings can stretch out a lot.

Seeds are sown in a container with moistened soil and sprinkled with a thin layer (approximately 2-3mm) of the soil mixture. The optimum temperature for seedlings is 20-22 degrees.

Pelargonium seeds can be sown in individual plastic or peat cups of 1-2 pcs. In this case, picking is not required. The container with seeds should be placed in a warm, bright place. Shoots appear in 5-10 days.

All this time, you need to monitor the soil moisture and prevent it from drying out and crusting. It is better to moisten the soil by spraying. As soon as seedlings appear, water carefully, trying not to get moisture on the leaves. After germination, the temperature can be slightly reduced to 18-20 degrees.

In order for the seedlings not to stretch, it is better to provide additional lighting. Phytolamps have proven themselves very well, thanks to which strong strong seedlings are obtained. Pinching over the fifth leaf is done in order to get a compact and lush pelargonium bush. For the same reason, it is recommended to pinch the flower every 2-3 months. If the seeds were sown in a common container, picking is done after the appearance of the real first leaf.

When propagated by seeds, the flowering period occurs in about six months.

Photo of pelargonium























Pelargonium (lat. Pelargonium) is a plant of the geranium family. In nature, there are up to 350 plant species, which are usually herbaceous perennials, but there are also succulent plants and shrubs.

Homemade pelargonium is surprising in that it can act on people in a diametrically opposite way: one becomes sick from the aroma of Pelargonium, while it calms and relaxes others. Only some types of Pelargonium were cultivated, but this does not mean that there is nothing to choose from.

In addition to their decorative qualities, Pelargoniums stand out and are useful - they are used in medicine and perfumery. Pelargonium essential oil is used not only as a fragrance for soaps or perfumes, but also is an excellent tool for purifying the air from harmful impurities and microorganisms.

Pelargonium - photo

Pelargonium - video

Pelargonium - home care

Lighting.

Indoor pelargonium just refers to plants that not only tolerate direct sunlight well, but also need them. Conclusion - for pelargonium, windows on south side. But, despite this, the plant grows well even on the north side, the main thing is that the daylight hours are long, otherwise the shoots are extended. In summer, pelargonium is taken out to the street or balcony, if possible. The room with pelargoniums needs to be ventilated, because. It needs fresh air to thrive.

Temperature.

In summer, the temperature should be between 25 and 30 °C, i.e. room temperature in summer. In winter, the temperature should be quite low, which is necessary for the normal flowering of pelargonium. So throughout the winter, it is advisable not to rise above 14 ° C.

Watering pelargonium.

A pelargonium plant at home must be watered three to four days after the topsoil has dried. You can check by deepening your finger 1-2 cm into the substrate. It's summer. In winter, watering is carried out in such a way that the soil simply does not dry out. At low air temperatures and high soil moisture, the roots of pelargonium can rot, which, in turn, can lead to disease of the entire plant and its death.

Spraying pelargonium.

The indoor pelargonium flower does not suffer from dry air, so it is not necessary to spray the pelargonium. If the temperature is very high in summer, then it will not be superfluous to spray the leaves a little.

Feeding pelargonium.

Feeding pelargonium is carried out once or twice with an interval of two weeks a couple of months after transplantation. They are fed to improve flowering, for which phosphate fertilizers are used. Top dressing with organic fertilizers is undesirable - the plant does not absorb them well.

Pruning pelargonium.

Pelargoniums at room conditions are pruned annually, leaving shoots with only 2-4 nodes. This is done in order to get a lush flowering bush. In pelargonium, it is necessary to remove leaves that have turned yellow or dried out. To do this, use a very sharp knife, and in no case tear off the sheets, since the torn edges can begin to rot. To prevent this from happening, the place of the cut is sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Cut the leaves so that the base of the petiole remains on the plant.

Pelargonium transplant.

Young pelargoniums need an annual transplant, and older ones - when the roots completely braid the pot with roots. Drainage is poured at the bottom of the pot, as usual, and a soil mixture is poured on top: humus, turf and leaf soil, peat and sand - all in equal parts.

Pelargonium from seeds.

Pelargoniums, when propagated by seeds, may lose varietal characteristics, which must be taken into account when planting. For sowing, they make up a soil mixture of equal parts of peat, sand and soddy soil, pour it into a low container. For quick germination, the temperature should be around 22 ° C, then the seeds will germinate within two weeks. Pelargonium seedlings dive into individual small pots, and when the pot becomes small, they are transferred to pots 9 cm in diameter. First bloom at proper care seen after a year or so.

Reproduction of pelargonium cuttings.

Home pelargonium is best propagated by apical cuttings. Cuttings are cut and rooted either at the end of winter or at the end of summer. The stalk is cut off the apical, and the cut is made at an angle just below the node. There should be at least three leaves on the handle. Best of all - from three to five sheets. The cuttings are left to dry for several hours, and before planting, the cut points are treated with a root stimulator and crushed charcoal. A substrate is poured into the container from equal parts of soddy soil, sand and peat, and the cuttings are planted around the perimeter. You can pinch the stalk to make the pelargonium flower lush. The container with the cuttings is put in place with bright diffused light and the soil is regularly sprayed. After 15-20 days, the cuttings should take root. When the seedlings get stronger, they are seated in individual pots. It should be borne in mind that the abundance of flowering depends on the size of the pot: the larger the pot, the poorer the pelargonium blooms. Pelargonium will bloom 5-7 months after rooting.

Poisonousness of pelargonium.

Not all pelargoniums are poisonous, but it is best to wash your hands after handling the flower unless you know if the species is poisonous.

Pelargonium - diseases and pests

Pelargonium does not bloom. If the plant does not get sick and is not affected by pests, then this could be caused by wintering at high air temperature and bright lighting.

The edges of the lower leaves of pelargonium dry, which turn yellow. Pelargonium lacks moisture in the soil - it is necessary to increase the frequency of watering.

The lower leaves of pelargonium wither, turn yellow and rot. Too frequent watering, the soil does not have time to dry out between waterings. The leaves need to be cut, and sprinkle the cut with crushed coal powder.

The base of the pelargonium stem turns black. This is root rot. She is also Black Leg. Read in the section "Diseases" how to deal with it.

Blisters on pelargonium leaves. Excess moisture in the soil. Pelargonium should be watered a couple of days after the topsoil has dried.

Gray rot on pelargonium. Pelargonium does not tolerate stagnant water in the substrate. Improper watering - gray rot is right there!

Pelargonium pests. Pelargonium most often feed on whiteflies and aphids.

Pelargonium - types

Pelargonium fragrant / Pelargonium graveolens

Pelargonium fragrant (Pelargonium graveolens). Evergreen strongly branching shrub, pubescent, grows up to 1 m in height. The leaves are pubescent, divided into 5-7 lobes, green. They smell good. Inflorescences are umbellate, numerous flowers - pink. The flowering period is throughout the summer.

Capitate Pelargonium / Pelargonium capitatum

Pelargonium capitate (Pelargonium capitatum). The species is represented by evergreen shrubs, growing to a height of up to 0.5 m and a little. Shoots and leaves are pubescent. Shoots are straight. The leaves are as if crumpled, divided into 3-5 parts, green. Inflorescence umbellate. The flowers are sessile, grow in large numbers, pinkish in color (with shades of purple). The flowering period is mid-late summer. Leaves smell.

Pelargonium fragrant / Pelargonium odoratissimum

Pelargonium fragrant (Pelargonium odoratissimum). Shrub, does not shed leaves, shoots are short. Leaves up to 5 cm wide, heart-shaped, rounded, with slightly ragged edges, covered with very short and soft hairs, smell very pleasant. Inflorescences are umbellate. Flowers are collected in 8-10 pieces, pink-white.

Pelargonium zone / Pelargonium zonale

Pelargonium zonale (Pelargonium zonale). Evergreen meter shrubs with pubescent and fleshy shoots. The leaves are usually entire and only sometimes slightly lobed, green in color with a brown border around the edge. Sedentary red flowers are collected in many-flowered inflorescences. Blooms from late spring to early autumn.

Pelargonium klobuchkovy / Pelargonium cucullatum

Pelargonium klobuchkovy (Pelargonium cucullatum). An evergreen pubescent shrub native to South Africa. Leaves on long petioles, green. The inflorescence is umbellate. Flowers red-violet, numerous. The flowering period falls on the end of summer - the beginning of autumn. There are varieties with double leaves.

Pelargonium grandiflorum / Pelargonium grandiflorum

Large-flowered Pelargonium (Pelargonium grandiflorum). Evergreen meter shrub with a large number of branches. Leaves are either lobed or dissected, reniform-rounded, or slightly pubescent or without hairs. On the peduncle grows up to 3 white flowers with red veins; flowers in diameter grow up to 3-4 cm. Flowering falls in mid-spring - early summer.

Curly Pelargonium / Pelargonium crispum

Pelargonium curly (Pelargonium crispum). Evergreen shrubs with a large number of branches, grow up to 0.5 m. The leaves grow in two rows, the shape is approximately heart-shaped, dense, the edges are torn-wavy, jagged. Blooms in mid-late summer. Flowers grow on low pedicels of two or three pieces. Leaves smell good.

Pelargonium soiling / Pelargonium inquinans

Pelargonium dirty (Pelargonium inquinans). One and a half meter evergreen shrub with fleshy shoots. The leaves are rounded kidney-shaped, dark green. Inflorescences are umbellate. The pedicels are short. Flowers are red. Depending on the care, it can bloom in late spring, summer, autumn and winter.

Fluffy Pelargonium / Pelargonium crithmifolium

Fluffy Pelargonium (Pelargonium crithmifolium). These are succulent deciduous plants with thick creeping shoots. The leaves are divided into pinnate lobes and bluish in color, reach a length of 8 cm, may be covered with hairs, or may be hairless. Inflorescences are umbellate. Pedicels 1.5-2 cm long, flowers grow in 5-6 pieces, white; pharynx with red spots.

Pelargonium pink / Pelargonium radens

Pelargonium pink (Pelargonium radens). Evergreen one and a half meter shrubs with a large number of pubescent shoots. The leaves are pubescent on both sides: soft hairs below and hard hairs above; the edges of the sheets are bent; the leaves are very deeply divided. They smell very nice. Peduncle umbellate, pubescent. The flowers are pink with dark veins, grow in several pieces on a peduncle.

Pelargonium angular / Pelargonium angulosum

Pelargonium angular (Pelargonium angulosum). Evergreen pelargonium growing up to 1 m in height. The leaves look a bit like an oak leaf, but the leaf lobes are wavy instead of straight. They grow on a short petiole. Inflorescence umbellate. Many flowers, most often bright red. With proper care, flowering falls at the end of summer - mid-autumn.

Pelargonium quadrangular / Pelargonium tetragonum

Pelargonium quadrangular (Pelargonium tetragonum). This species is a deciduous shrub growing up to 60-70 cm in height. The stems are straight, tetrahedral, light green or tinged with grey. The leaves are heart-shaped, petiolate, covered with sparse hairs, grow up to 5 cm wide; the edge of the leaf is reddish-brown. Flowers usually consist of 5 white petals (with a cream or pink tint) - 3 large petals at the top, and 2 smaller ones at the bottom. Rating 4.59 (22 votes)

Pelargonium fragrant is often described as a geranium. You can understand why many beginners and even professional flower growers confuse these two flowers, pelargonium and geranium belong to the same Geramiaceae family, and appearance it is very difficult to distinguish them. Their leaves are the same shape, they have the same structure, they bloom in a similar way - so what is the difference?

The following genera belong to the Geraniev family:

  1. Geranium
  2. Stork (Crane)
  3. Monsonia
  4. Sarcocaulon

It turns out geranium and pelargonium are two different kinds. They can be distinguished by the shape of the flowers, in the wild they grow in different areas and express different resistance to cold weather.

An evergreen shrub, it has a densely branched stem, reaching a maximum height of 90 cm. At the base, the stem is woody, then pubescent. The lower leaflets are arranged oppositely, the upper ones alternately, the petioles are hairy.

Pelargonium is famous for the pleasant aroma of rose oil, it comes from the essential oil contained in the stem and leaves of the plant. The flowers are collected in an inflorescence umbrella, peduncles are long, each flower has 10 stamens and 1 pistil.

The corolla comes in a variety of colors, ranging from white to red. Pelargonium came to us from South Africa, in artificial conditions, they began to grow it not so much because of its decorative properties, but in order to obtain essential oil. The flower is unpretentious, easily multiplies and takes root quickly. In a warm climate, pelargonium is grown on an industrial scale.

Applications of pelargonium


Pelargonium belongs to essential oil plants. widely used in soap making, cosmetic and perfumery production. Much less often the flower is used in folk medicine and culinary. The concentrate released from the essential oil is even used for dyeing leather products.

So, why is the essential oil of pelargonium and other geraniums so useful? First of all, it increases physical and mental performance. Helps to restore the emotional state, works as a sedative.

It is used for psychological and mental disorders, helps to fight anxiety and fear, cope with chronic fatigue and overwork. In some way, geranium and pelargonium oil is an antidepressant.

Plant oil helps to feel more confident, overcome complexes, stop being sensitive to changes in the surrounding world. After a hard, stressful day, the oil helps to relax, restore a favorable aura.

Using oil, the goal is to fight rashes, flaking, inflammation and other damage, ideal for sensitive skin. Helps fight dry eczema, burns and frostbite, as it has regenerative properties.

The oil also has an analgesic and anti-edematous effect, lowers blood sugar levels, and helps stop the growth of tumor cells.

Growing pelargonium at home

If pelargonium appeared at home, then for its growth and development it will be necessary to provide special conditions:

  • good lighting
  • proper watering
  • no spraying
  • air temperature not lower than 12 degrees
  • pinching, cutting

Pelargonium loves light and warm window sills, room temperature is suitable for the plant, but in winter it will best tolerate coolness, approximately 8-10 degrees Celsius.

If there is not enough light, then the plant will stop blooming or will give very small and rare flowers, not so bright. If the plant is at home, then it is better to protect it from direct sunlight, which it will perfectly tolerate while outdoors in the fresh air. Pelargonium loves space, so you should take care that other plants do not interfere with it.

Water the flower should be when the soil dries. With an excess of water, the roots can rot, which can be understood by weakened sluggish leaves. In winter, the plant is rarely watered. Pelargonium calmly tolerates a lack of water, so it will be better to have little than an overabundance.


Soil for geraniums, with self-preparation, use garden soil, peat and sand. A large layer of drainage is laid at the bottom of the pot, from time to time the soil needs to be loosened to ensure oxygen access to the roots.

It is very important to choose the right size of the pot, it depends on the size of the root system. It will be better for geraniums if the pot is small. If the pot is spacious, then the plant does not grow so actively and does not bloom so brightly and profusely.

To make the shrub more lush and beautiful shape, a pinch is made, at which the growth point is removed. Pinching is done in February or March. Pelargonium must be fed. During the period of active growth, liquid mineral fertilizers should be applied, they should have a minimum of nitrogen and a maximum of phosphorus.

Reproduction of geraniums

Pelargonium reproduces in two ways: vegetatively and by seeds. In the first case, green cuttings are used.

Green cuttings for propagation are taken from March to September. Rooting will occur within 7-14 days. If semi-lignified cuttings are taken, then the sampling period is from August to October, and rooting will last up to 3 weeks. The average cutting length is 5 cm.

With a sharp knife, you need to cut off the stalk, 3 top leaves are left, the rest are removed. Slices need to be treated with charcoal or sulfur, so that the slices dry out, one day in the fresh air will be enough.

Plant the petioles in plastic cups with drainage holes. This is done for a reason, transparent walls allow you to control the level of soil moisture and the appearance of roots. Coconut fiber is placed in a cup and placed in a warm fungicide solution to make the fiber wet, and then wait one day for it to dry.

The cutting must be planted deep so that the edges reach the bottom. At first, the cutting may be sluggish, but after 3-4 days its condition will be restored. The glass should be placed away from the window, but in a bright place. Water is poured only into the tray. The plant will take root faster if the air temperature in the room reaches 24 degrees.

Any plant is much harder to grow from seed, but the attempt is not torture. Seeds are sown in containers during the winter, from December to February. You can prepare the soil yourself by mixing peat with river sand, clean peat is also suitable. After three weeks, shoots will already appear. All this time, the soil is regularly moistened. It is necessary to make a greenhouse effect, that is, cover the container with glass or film.

The sprout is transferred to a separate container when at least three leaves appear on it. When more than 6 leaves appear, the plant can be pinched so that it begins to branch.

As we can see, it is very simple to grow pelargonium; favorable conditions can be created for it in every home. Essential oil obtained from geranium leaves is very beneficial for all body systems.

How to choose a fragrant pelargonium and how to grow it, see the video:

Pelargonium and geranium are very similar in their outward signs and botanical characteristics. Minor differences are noticeable only to specialists. At one time, the Dutch scientist I. Burman proposed to classify these plants into different families, but his contemporary and close friend, the Swedish naturalist K. Linnaeus, insisted on combining both cultures.

pelargonium plant (Pelargonium) belongs to the Geranium family. Homeland - South Africa ka.

Indoor geranium is called pelargonium (Pelargonium). This name comes from the Greek elephant "pelargos", or crane, which is very close to the old Russian name "crane nose". Pelargonium is named so because the flower column after pollination grows into a long "beak", very similar to the beak of a crane or stork.

The first plantations of pelargonium appeared in the USSR in 1929. By 1940, the production of geranium oil already began to satisfy our needs. Most of all, pelargonium was cultivated in Abkhazia, in eastern Georgia, in the Armenian and Tajik SSR. For ten years, the area of ​​cultivation of pelargonium has increased from six hectares to three thousand hectares.

Pelargonium breeding was not successful at first, since it is a perennial plant of dry subtropics and does not withstand temperatures even 2 below zero - it dies. In Abkhazia, in winter, there are frosts down to -8 -11, and in Tajikistan even up to -20. But Soviet plant breeders solved the difficult problem in a very original way, turning pelargonium from perennial plant in the annual, that is, annually growing seedlings from cuttings in greenhouses and greenhouses.

It should be noted that pelargonium is perfectly propagated by cuttings. Up to thirty cuttings are cut from one bush.

Check out the photo and description of pelargoniums various kinds, and also learn about the secrets of growing this crop.

What does pelargonium (geranium) of different types look like: photo, name and description

Pelargonium is a highly decorative annual or perennial herbaceous plant, shrub or stem succulent.

The flowers are simple, semi-double or double, collected in an inflorescence-umbrella, of the most diverse colors. When describing pelargonium, plants are usually divided into zonal, large-flowered, fragrant and ivy.

Pelargoniums are found in various varieties and species. Some with rounded leaves, with a brownish circle at the edge or with a white border - this is zonal, or bordered, and variegated (Pelargonium zonale - bordered, zone - belt).

As can be seen in the photo, in such pelargoniums (geraniums) bright red flowers are collected in an umbrella with a hat:

Especially bright flowers in the meteor variety, which is usually planted in flower beds in the summer.

The most popular types:

P. fragrant (P. fragrans)- leaves with a smell of nutmeg.

P. capitate (P. capitatum)- rose-scented leaves.

P. home, or large-flowered (P. domesticum, grandiflorum)- flowers are large, brightly colored.

P. fragrant (P. graveolens) The leaves have a strong specific smell.

P. zonal (P. zonele)- plants up to 40 cm high, leaves slightly pubescent, with a brown pattern.

P. curly (P. crispum) The leaves have a lemon scent.

P. ivy, or thyroid (P. peltatum)- hanging shoots, shiny leaves and others.

The largest flowers of various colors and with beautiful dark spots are in English pelargonium with harsh and slightly folded leaves. This is Pelargonium grandiflorum - a large-colored pelargonium houseplant.

A variety of indoor pelargonium flowers is also common, having light green leaves with a white border around the edges. Such a plant is commonly referred to as "whitefly geranium". Among gardeners, this variety of the English type of pelargonium is called "Madame Butterfly".

Some lovers plant three different pelargoniums in one pot. A very strange impression is obtained during their flowering: the bush seems to be one, but its flowers are different, of three varieties.

Almost all beautifully flowering pelargoniums have a rather unpleasant smell.

But there is home flower pelargonium (Pelargonium roseum - pink, or Pelargonium odoratissimum - the most fragrant) with small pinkish flowers, but with very fragrant leaves. The leaves are deeply cut, covered with hairs. If you rub them with your fingers, the aroma will intensify. They smell like perfume. If you look at the leaf in a magnifying glass, you can see that the hairs of the leaf consist of a single-celled vesicle - a head on a leg of four cells, called a "gland". This vial contains fragrant essential oil.

The bubble bursts and the oil evaporates. It turns out that the essential oil vapors emitted by leaves or delicate flower petals, enveloping them from all sides, like fog, protect against too much heating by the sun's rays and from cooling at night, as well as in dry weather from strong evaporation of water from the leaves.

These photos show what different types of pelargoniums look like:

Pelargonium home, large-flowered is the source material for breeding many species of this plant. The leaves are rounded, with serrated edges. Flowers of various colors (white, pink, red, orange, purple), reach a diameter of 6 cm.

Indoor geranium zonal pelargonium is a small shrub whose branches are densely covered with green leaves with a red-brown stripe along the edges. Multi-colored flowers are collected in umbrella inflorescences.

Pelargonium thyroid is a climbing plant with rounded, dense leaves. Small flowers painted white or pink color with purple veins on the two upper petals.

See photos of pelargonium species, the name of which is given above:

How to properly care for pelargonium in a pot

Pelargonium is a very unpretentious, photophilous plant, it does not need high humidity.

To care for pelargonium correctly, as experienced flower growers advise, you need to place the plant in a warm place with good lighting. A pot with a plant should be placed on windows facing the sunny side. For the same reason, the plant must be isolated from the effects of hot air from central heating batteries.

An important condition for growing pelargonium is to lower the temperature in winter to 6-8 ° C on cold, bright windows. In late spring - early summer, the plant should be taken out to fresh air, shading it from direct sunlight.

For proper care of pelargoniums, flowers need a substrate consisting of sod and compost soil or peat and sand (2: 1: 0.5). The plant grows well in both alkaline and acidic soil.

Watering. Regardless of the season, pelargoniums need regular watering. This should be done when the soil in the pots is completely dry to the touch. In summer, abundant watering is necessary, but stagnation of water in the pan should not be allowed. Water is required so much that, having passed through the entire earthen lump, it exits through the drainage hole into the pan, from where it is then removed. In winter, watering is sharply reduced.

When growing pelargonium at home, it winters worst in the room.

To care for pelargonium in a pot as carefully as possible, you need to feed the plant with mineral fertilizers with a predominance of potassium.

Transplanted only when the pot becomes cramped. To prevent the shoots from stretching, they are regularly pinched. Continuous flowering can be achieved by breaking off faded flower stalks.

The following describes how to properly form a pelargonium bush.

How to grow pelargonium at home to form a bush

Even with good care, when growing pelargonium, plants stretch and turn pale over the winter. The leaves have long petioles and small leaf blades. By spring, buds open at the ends of the stems, and last year's round plant turns into a freak with long bare stems.

To grow pelargonium at home as beautiful as possible, you need to decide what you want to get from your plant: a bush or a tree. With scissors (preferably garden shears) or a sharp knife, cut off all the stems, except for one straight one. On the remaining stem, cut off the lower side branches. If the stem is long enough, then cut off the top, then from the sides of the stem at the top of the kidney will start to grow and a crown will form. To make your pelargonium branched, dense and spherical, cut off the tops of the side branches when they grow up too (like the trees on the boulevard).

So you got a tree with a trunk (stem) and a crown.

If your pelargonium does not have long stems, they are all crooked and low, then cut them all so that six to ten centimeters high stumps remain above the ground.

When caring for and growing pelargonium at home, use pruned branches for propagation by cuttings. Do not be afraid, you will not ruin your pelargonium. At the end of spring you will have a wonderful bush with bright leaves on strong petioles.

To make the pelargonium bush rounder and thicker, cut off too protruding branches too. When cutting, pay attention to the fact that the buds over which the cut is made “look” away from the main stem or to the side where there are no oncoming branches. Most of all, the shoot from the highest bud left on the branch grows, and therefore branches should not be allowed to grow inside the bush or interfere with the growth of another branch.

By pruning plants, you provide for where the top bud will grow, and thereby direct the growth of the plant where you want.

Now that you know how to care for pelargonium, check out the rules for plant propagation.

Pelargonium plant propagation by cuttings (with video)

For propagation of pelargonium, cuttings are cut in late January - early February. They should be 7-12 cm long with 2-3 internodes, cut at an angle.

The lower ends of the cuttings are cleaned of leaves by 5 cm and dried for 4 hours. It is better to root the plant in moderately moist sand, although for this purpose you can also use a glass of water in which the cuttings are placed. Boiled water is used in a glass, changing it once a week. Cuttings should be kept in a warm, well-lit place, but not in the open sun. Usually after 4–5 weeks, roots 4–5 cm long are formed, at which time the cuttings can be planted in pots.

The soil mixture is prepared from soddy soil, sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, and after a few days the seedlings are exposed to a sunny place. For planting, it is recommended to take pots with a diameter of no more than 8 cm, otherwise the plants begin to form many shoots and do not bloom.

Pelargoniums that have overwintered in the house can be planted in spring with the onset of spring. open ground. It is recommended to do this procedure after the danger of frost has passed, and the air warms up to 15 degrees. 1-2 weeks after planting, the first inflorescences appear on the pelargonium. If you take good care of the plant, it will bloom until the frost. If it is not possible to transplant pelargonium into the ground, it can be placed in floor vases. With the onset of frost, the plant is again brought into the house. The plant is dug out of the ground, cut off the roots and placed in a pot. The tops of the shoots of the plant are cut off.

This video shows the propagation technique of pelargonium cuttings:

How to breed pelargonium at home by grafting

To breed pelargonium, you can use a vaccination at home. First, let's remember how cuttings are made. A stalk from a pelargonium is cut off eight centimeters in size with three nodes, from which the leaf petioles extend. A slightly beveled cut is made under the lower node, the leaves are removed, except for two that have not yet developed, at the very top.

In wet sand, poured into a bowl or pot, a recess is made at an angle with a stick and the cutting is inserted into it almost halfway. The sand is pressed tightly.

Cuttings planted in this way are known to be covered with a glass cap or jar. Pelargonium cuttings give roots in twenty days. They can be planted in pots not only obliquely, but also directly, but for this you need to “bring air closer” to them. And this is how it is done. A small pot is placed upside down in a large one. Wet sand is poured between the walls of both pots. Air enters the cuttings through the porous walls of both pots.

You already know such cuttings from other plants. But a pelargonium stalk can be planted not in the sand, but on another plant. Only in this case, the cutting will not give roots, but will grow together with the plant on which it is planted, and will use its roots. This is the vaccine.

For grafting, a six-centimeter pelargonium stalk is taken with two or three buds in the axils of cut leaves. The lower part of such a cutting is cut off with a very sharp knife or razor blade on both sides in the form of a spatula or a wedge so that the lower kidney is between two cuts.

As shown in the photo, the sections at houseplant pelargonium for grafting should be even and not very steep:

The grafted cutting is called a scion, and the plant to which the cutting is grafted is called a rootstock.

With a stock, we will choose a pelargonium of a different variety and cut off the top of one of the stems from it. On the hemp of the stem, we will make an incision in the middle of one or one and a half centimeters, that is, a little more than a cut of the cutting. Carefully insert the wedge of the cutting into this incision so that both halves of the rootstock stem completely cover the side sections of the cutting - scion.

The secret of successful grafting lies in the fact that the skin, and thus all other parts of the stem - bast, cambium and wood - coincide on at least one side - only then will they grow together.

In order to grow pelargonium by grafting correctly, as experienced breeders advise, the scion and stock are chosen to be the same thickness or the grafted cutting is taken a little thinner, then it moves to one side so that the skin and cambium coincide on one side. The kidney should also be on this side. A scion thicker than a stock should not be taken.

When grafting, you need to pay attention to the quality of the branches from which the scion is taken.

If you want the grafted branch to bloom sooner, you need to take it from the top of a plant that has already bloomed or is starting to bloom.

When the connection of the scion with the stock is made, then a thick, preferably woolen, thread is wound around the index finger of the left hand and the graft is carefully wrapped with the thread with the right hand, at the same time the stalk with the graft is tightly, but not strongly squeezed with the left hand. If the thread is thin and can cut the stem, then the grafting site is first wrapped with a layer of cotton wool. But at the same time, you may not notice how the slippery sections move.

Instead of tying with a thread, you can use the "high-speed" method of fastening a scion with a stock using a cork. A hole is made in the cork, into which the stem of the rootstock would freely enter. Such a cork is first put on a cut stem. After the cutting is inserted into the rootstock incision, the cork is lifted and it compresses the grafting site. To make the cork elastic, it must first be soaked in warm water.

With proper care of the pelargonium flower, you can also graft the side of the stem without cutting off the stock. At the same time, it is interesting to note how the rootstock, which retained leaves during this grafting, affects the scion or vice versa.

In 1926, I. V. Michurin’s assistant, P. N. Yakovlev, planted a lemon seedling on a seedling of a pear “Bere winter Michurin”. Under the influence of a grafted lemon, a pear planted in a pot stopped shedding leaves in winter. You can notice such interesting influences of rootstock and graft on each other during your vaccinations.

Just keep in mind that the old plant (graft or rootstock) has a stronger effect on grafted young plants grown from seeds.

Grafted plants should not be exposed to the sun, as the scion may wither.

The top cut from the rootstock can either be cut and planted or grafted onto the plant from which the scion was cut.

Features of a houseplant pelargonium (with photo)

The owner of a large number of essential oils, fragrant pelargonium, although it huddles from time immemorial on the windowsills of our windows, it comes from South Africa, from the Cape, from the Cape of Good Hope, from where it was brought to Europe in late XVI century.

In the Cape Land, there are more than one hundred and seventy species of pelargonium. There, in the spring - in August - dense thickets of pelargoniums are covered with bright red spots of flowers.

Pelargonium with fragrant leaves grows on dry, sunny mountain slopes. It is a semi-shrub one and a half meters high, with a woody stem and grassy young branches, with a strong and very pleasant aroma.

This fragrance is reminiscent of the smell of roses, and in early XIX centuries, fragrant pelargonium began to be cultivated to obtain essential geranium oil, replacing the extremely expensive rose.

At first, pelargonium began to be bred in Algeria in damp, low-lying places, where it grew strongly, but gave an oil with a less delicate aroma.

The best geranium oil began to be obtained in Spain and in southern France, where pelargonium was cultivated on drier soil.

Fragrant essential oils are not only pleasant, but also useful: they freshen the air, purifying it from harmful impurities. Just one two thousandth, and for some smells even one hundred millionth of a milligram of essential oil vapor per liter of air is enough to feel the aroma.

The smell of fragrant substances gives people pleasure, and therefore fragrant substances have been used by many peoples since ancient times.

AT ancient egypt, Greece, Rome, they were used in the form of incense, fragrant water, fragrant oils.

Energy of pelargonium .

Symbolism: love, healing, protection from enemies, including energy ones. It puts out the fire of rage, anger, develops a sense of humor, helps people who are under a lot of pressure from life circumstances. It remarkably harmonizes unfavorable zones and neutralizes harmful effects. Bright red geranium radiates vitality and energy, heals, protects from evil forces, pink favors love, white geranium promotes the birth of children. Geranium has a powerful, positive energy. To restore strength after a hard day, it is recommended to sit next to a geranium. But it’s still not worth putting it in the bedroom, the smell of this plant is too strong. The peculiarity of pelargonium lies in the fact that it perfectly collects energy dirt and can be actively used as an energy filter. Special power, according to scientists, has a blooming red geranium. In the house of the famous Bulgarian healer Vanga, pelargonium, which in Bulgaria is called "zdorovets", has always bloomed. It is believed that this flower brings good luck and health and serves as a good luck talisman to a certain extent.

Experiments with pelargonium .

Pelargonium, not only fragrant, but also the most common, zonal, also allows you to perform the most amazing experiments on yourself.

For example, you want to have a few more small pelargoniums. Prepare pieces of not very thick birch bark soaked in water from firewood. Wash your hands: you are about to undergo surgery.

With a sharp knife or safety razor blade, make an oblique cut from the bottom up on one of the branches of your pelargonium. The incision should not be less than half the thickness of the branch. A small piece of clean glass is inserted into the incision so that the edges of the incision do not grow together. Now around the twig, just below the cut, wrap a piece of birch bark with a fungus and pierce it with a pin. Substitute a stick stuck in the ground with a flyer in the form of a pitchfork under the pound. Pour good earth or sand into the pound, which are compacted with a stick. When caring for indoor flower Water the ground in the pound with pelargonium, preventing it from drying out. Such air layer You can also do it on another branch. When roots have formed on the branch, cut it off and plant it in a separate pot.

Arithmetic with leaves and water .

With branches of pelargonium in schools, experiments are often made on the evaporation of water by leaves. To do this, a branch is lowered into a test tube with water and sunflower oil is poured on top so that the water does not evaporate from the surface.

This experience is interesting and useful for us, lovers of indoor gardening. You just need to put it more accurately: measure the amount of water with a beaker, make a mark on the test tube and calculate the area of ​​​​the sheet, outlining its outline on checkered paper (a notebook cell is 1/2 centimeter). From these measurements, we can find out how many cubic centimeters of water per day, on average, a leaf area of ​​ten square centimeters evaporates.

By counting the number of leaves and their average area on the whole plant, you will draw a conclusion about the amount of water the plant needs for evaporation. Of course, the amount of water evaporated will vary depending on the time of year and temperature changes in the room.

By doing this several times with different plants throughout the year, you will become a very skilled gardener who knows exactly how to water the plants.

"Crane nose" predicts the weather .

Pelargonium seeds have long awns, which in dry weather, like springs, throw them out when ripe. If you take a closer look at such seeds, or rather, at the fruit of a pelargonium, you will notice that a long elastic awn in dry weather bends and curls up like a spring, and straightens out in wet weather.

If you put the fruit on the ground in a flower pot, then from screw twisting the fruit will gradually screw into the ground. If the awn is moistened, it will unwind, but the fruit will remain in the ground and will not unscrew back, as it is held by elastic hairs pointing upwards. interesting picture can be seen by placing the fruitlets on damp cotton wool.

Take a square of thin cardboard, draw a circle on it and make a hole in the middle.

In this hole, we will attach the fruit with plaster or sealing wax so that its spine lies directly on the paper. Let us first place this square in a very dry place, for example, in a heated oven, but not very hot, and mark the place of the end of the awn on the circle by putting "O". Note the number of curls on the spine.

Then we place the square in a damp chamber - a jar tightly closed, lined on all sides with wet blotting paper. Mark on the circle the place where the tip of the awn has moved with the number 100. Divide the entire arc from 0 to 100 into equal one hundred or ten parts with a compass and put down the numbers marking the tens.

So we got a device that shows the humidity of the air and predicts rain.

This device is called a hygrometer, or moisture meter. Hang your hygrometer on the wall near the window with plants and determine the weather by the "crane's nose".

As you can see, growing a pelargonium flower is a very exciting experience!